review: Arak Keshmesh

September 17th, 2009

  • Category: raisin brandy
  • Alcohol: 50%
  • Origin: USA
  • Manufacturer: Bear & Eagle Products
  • Bought at: Wholesome Choice supermarket, Irvine CA (Thanks Henk!)

This is strictly no Arabic liquor, but Persian. Moreover, it is not made in Iran but in California, where apparently a large part of the Iranian diaspora is found. Nevertheless I find it suitable to discuss this liquor because of the obscurity factor. What immediately attracts attention is the amalgamation of scripts on the label: from top to bottom, Armenian, Russian, Arabic, and Latin. The Arabic scripts says “raisin arak” in Persian, and it is exactly that. Using dried grapes (raisins) as a basis for a brandy is quite special since most grape-based brandies are either based on normal grapes (cognac), or on pomace (grappa, marc). Indeed it is so special that I am unaware of other manufacturers. At first smell it immediately reminds of spiritus, but the taste itself is very fruity and pleasant. The taste clearly resembles overripe fruit, similar to Spanish orujo; this characteristic can of course be ascribed to the raisins. The “overripeness” is however not necessarily a bad thing, and indeed it works quite well here. There is significantly more to taste than in grape or pomace brandies. With 50% alcohol the drink is quite fierce, and diluting it with some water makes it more palatable (there is however also a 40% alcohol version available). 8/10

External link: Bear & Eagle Products

review: Mahia Meknesiah

February 19th, 2008

  • Category: fig brandy (flavored with aniseed)
  • Alcohol: 36%
  • Origin: France
  • Manufacturer: Thivolet Universal
  • Bought at: Naouri kosher supermarket, Nice, France

Mahia (which means water of life in Arabic) is originally a Jewish Moroccan fig brandy. As the Anisette Phénix, it is now produced in France. Nevertheless other brands are still available in Morocco (see the second external link). It apparently exists either as a pure eau de vie of figs (as the Tunisian Boukha) or flavored with aniseed. This Mahia Meknesiah is flavored with aniseed, but it is very subtle, completely unlike arak, pastis or ouzo where anise is overwhelming. In any case the aroma is rather similar to boukha, but it is much fruitier en more fragrant. The taste is also much better than boukha. It should definitely not be diluted with water. It tastes fresh and fruity and the anise flavor gives a very nice and subtle touch. 8,5/10.

External link: M.G. Taieb Kosher Products
External link: Dafina Forums: Mahia (in French)

review: Anisette Phénix

February 18th, 2008

  • Category: anisette
  • Alcohol: 45%
  • Origin: France
  • Manufacturer: M.G. Taïeb Distillateurs
  • Bought at: Jewish butcher shop, Marseille, France

Anisette Phénix originally is an Algerian Jewish aperitive now produced in France. It is particularly associated with Jewish pieds-noirs, European colonists with French citizenship in Algeria. At some point in time in the twentieth century production moved from Algeria to France due to the unstable situation in Algeria, especially for Jews. According to the French Wikipedia Algerian anisette is made of star anise, just as French pastis and Italian Sambuca, but unlike the Arabic drinks as arak and zibib which is made of aniseed. According to the bottle it is made by macerating anise grains in a neutral grain spirit and subsequently distilling it. It is very sweet because of the added sugar (it is sweeter than pastis; arak is unsweetened) and it should be diluted with water. This liqueur is a nice drink, but I find it rather unimaginative because of its sweetness. 6/10.

External link: M.G. Taieb Kosher Products
External link: Wikipedia: Pied-Noir